Qinghai Nationalities University

Qinghai Nationalities University has been highly recommended by Western graduate students who have spent time there for a year of language study and/or field research.

Xining is perfectly situated to get into Amdo quickly and regularly (5 hours to Rebkong, 8 hours to Golok). It's easy to find a cheap apartment to rent (500-700 RMB per month) and there are lots of Tibetan students to befriend and practice language with. Although the town is a little drab, it has Tibetan night clubs, a small Tibetan temple, the best Tibetan bookstores anywhere, restaurants and so forth. The other exciting advantage to Xining is that it is ripe with intellectual ferment: Tibetan-initiated research/publishing/creative/educational projects abound.

Qinghai Nationalities University is also very accommodating. In 2000, it was mandatory that one apply as a student before entering China. QNU was very strict about this. It was not possible to arrive as a tourist and simply change one's visa status. But in more recent years it seems it is possible for them to convert a tourist visa into a year-long resident visa in a matter of days once you pay the tuition up front (around 7000-9000 RMB per semester) as either a full-time or research student.

Full-time students take 9-16 hours of classes, which they arrange according to their preferences. For example, Tibetan classes (in "standard" Amdo or the variant Golok dialect) can be arranged, and students can also study spoken Chinese in small classes. The quality of instruction is good, but as everywhere varies with the teacher. There are several accomplished teachers, including Jamyang Drakpa, Drukmo Kyi, and Bu bzhi, and probably many others yet to be discovered. Students may want to make sure that they have an understanding with the administration that they reserve the right to request a different teacher if you are not satisfied after a trial period. Teachers relatively inexperienced in teaching foreigners may tend to rely on students' lead in content and style of tutoring, so potential students are warned to be prepared for this, especially in one-on-one classes. The university is often flexible about people taking a week or two here and there for travels. You just need to tell the Foreign Affairs Office and your instructors in advance.

Research students basically pay a little less and arrange their own classes. As a research student, you would not have to relate to the university much at all, though you are technically expected to stay in Xining. Usually you have to be either a full-time or research student for the entire year.

Helena (who speaks fluent English) in the Foreign Affairs Office at Qinghai Nationalities University can answer any questions for you about the facilities and teachers there:

helenajia@eyou.com
0086-971-8802722